Thursday, February 26, 2009

It's morning!

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Mmmm.. Judy...

Morning reader!

So today is starting out pretty well! I decided to start out with research instead of sewing, despite Daphne walking out of the house with curt instructions to have a petticoat finished so she'd have something new to wear when she got home from class.

Research

I love doing research. I should really just throw everything out the window and become a professional researcher. Are there such jobs? I hope so... Nevertheless. I decided I needed to make a generic dress to use as a muslin form, so I started taking down my measurements. That's when I realized, I have no idea what measurements are needed! So there I am, standing half naked in my room with a measuring tape in one hand and a pencil in the other with NO idea where to go. I found this great site which has a lot of really interesting information about historical costuming (I love RenFaire people) and she talks about how tailors of ye ole day would have a bodice form for their clients, which they could use to begin the gowns once they got the general idea of when the woman would need it done. Of course, fittings come afterward, but having a general idea without draping is awesome.

Draping

Speaking of which, draping? for historical costumes? Absolutely not.

Sketching

So I decided to make the bum roll before I started working on the petticoats, mostly because I have an excess of scraps of linen that are too small for anything else but stuffing or things that aren't seen. I found a tutorial on one of my favorite sites and will get started on sewing a nice bum roll up shortly. I'm pleased that my sister and I have similar measurements (at least around, she measures in at 5'10"!) so I'll be able to use this bum roll as well. I sketched out the measurements needed, and away I go.

I'll update you later on how things went. For now, enjoy the pictures from the corset!



Loves and kisses,
Ashley

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

It's a new day!

Halo reader!

So today will be short because all the work I did was last night, and I have a ton of sewing left to do tonight. I got pretty frustrated earlier when I was pulling out my latest undergarment pattern. I discovered something I was not pleased to find out.

Patterns

I am in a current state of dislike for Reconstructing History. Her assemblage of materials may be amazing, but the directions are confusing, and the pictures don't correspond with the writing, so one cannot be sure of what one is making! Basically, it's not very comprehensive, so I won't be using it any more.

I had a lucky break! I was using Google Shopping to find the cheapest possible patterns, and I found a whole honking LOT of patterns! I was so pleased with the quality and the price, I ended up buying two lots from the same person! Bless my little heart, how I do love corsets... I think by the end of this project, I'll have more underpinnings than over!

By the by

If you're visiting my site to see my progress, you should take a moment to click on one of the ad thingers... It'll help me make a little cash to pay for the ridiculous amount of linen I'll be using :-x Maybe I should stick to muslin....

Anywho.

Drawers my arse! Oh wait...

I made drawers today! They're adorable. Size 8 in an off white linen with black bias tape as ribbon (for the moment. One I gather the resources, I'll hie off to PA Fabric and buy me some ribbon). They fit the monster (meaning Daphne) perfectly! Later this evening I'll post some pictures of her in the whole set of underpinnings.

More money? OH NO!

So my dressform sucks. Granted, I got her for about 50 bucks, but I'm beginning to realize (as Da always says) you get what you pay for! I need to buy a Uniquely You dressform. No biggie! Fortunetly, this month's "paycheck" will cover it. However... whilst search for a Judy, I came across this site and now my wallet is very angry at me. Tant pis! C'est la vie!

I'm off to start sketching the renaissance dress, wish me luck!

Loves and kisses,
Ashley

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

In the beginning, there were mistakes

Hello reader! (heh.)

Money money moooonnneeeeyyyyyy

My main concern as of late has been the amount of money I've been spending to work on this project. I'm a sucker for a beautiful brocade, and there are few things that can wrench me away from the linen and lace section in J-Fabs.
That being the case, I decided to do a little research into how to spend as little money as possible while getting the best products for my needs. My first stop was J-Fabs for some on sale lace and two versions of my apparent new best friend - the bias tape maker. Good. Lord. Do you have any idea how expensive lace by the yard for trim is?! It's embarrassing! So when I read on this website that there are ways around spending a gazillion dollars to make sure I can show off my creations without shame, I nearly wept with joy.

I noticed her little quip about how expensive J-Fabs is, so I decided to check online to see if there were any sewing/fabric places nearby. I'll have to do some comparative shopping, of course, but according to the dog wrangler in Two Gents, there is a wholesale fabric and trim place not too terribly far from here. It'll probably be a good thing I'm not getting any more tattoos!

Found one place, looks promising, but I cannot tell from their website if they allow over the counter sales! As in, in person. They show a picture of the building, but they also say something about a $200 minimum on all orders! I suppose I can trek out to find out in person, as it's only a 20 minute drive (thank you, google maps!).

Trials and tribulations with a victorian corset

My very first corset... phew. After a mock up of interesting proportions (I didn't exactly know how to use a pattern before, uh, that very moment), my second attempt with some hearty duck cotton proved to be amazing. I'll publish some pictures of Daphne in the corset (size 6 sewing, the little wench...) at a later time.

My main problem was figuring out exactly how to put the whole thing together, and how to put it together without having to rip it apart 6 billion times. I still haven't exactly mastered that bit, but no big deal. I was using this deep forest green (beauutiful color), and it proved to be a beautiful end product, but in the construction part, it was a pain and a half. The chalk would rub off, the marker would fade when I walked away to get a drink of water, or I would just not be paying attention! I learned the hard way that you should mark everything with multiple means, and that you should never EVER use the width 1 on a Baby Lock sewing machine if there is even the slightest possibility that you might have to rip out a seam. Let me put it this way... I had a strained back and sore eyes after an incident with width 1 and the starting seams of the corset. Ugh.

I purchased precut spring steel pieces for the aforementioned corset, so the insertion of those didn't take too long... except they weren't cut to the right lengths. Argh! After lots of replacing and muttering, I had them all put in at a suitable fashion. Then I proceeded to break two needles on steel trying to sew shut the corset with double wide black bias tape. Bias tape, I learned, is a pain in the butt and WAY overpriced. Thus came my purchase which I ranted about above.

After putting together the pieces as per the instructions, I did the grommet thing (hence forth, I shall use button holes and reinforce them!) and used the 5 yards long lacing (think shoe lace, in black) to bind my little sister (very little, 105 lbs, 5'9) into my lovely corset. See photos later.

Money money mooonnneeeyyy
I'm searching for a gathering foot that is compatible with my Design Pro (BL22). Best bet? Babylock's website! I found the foot I need, now all I have to do is... find a store that will sell it to me? Oh Babylock... why do you begrudge me?! The Gathering Foot (ESG-DS) is a sturdy little foot that will make some of my gathering nightmares go away. Granted, pleating and according pulling three stay-stitches is more period, but for certain parts of the upcoming chemise, a gathering foot will be primo-extreme-o.

Ooo... a "Chem -E-Zay!"

Linen.

Oh yes, I said linen. The quintessential fabric for showing the incredible need for stay-stitching. Set my Baby on width 4 and away I go after cutting on the fold many more pieces that I anticipated. Feeding the fabric through at a snails pace seemed to be the only way NOT to ruin my lovely unbleached linen.
Since only undergarments will be made with a pattern during this project (I must be insane), this will be the second to last for my Victorian outfit. Reconstructing History is a pretty great place to find some awesome patterns for undergarments!

After putting together the yoke for the garment, I dealt with the pain in the butt of gathering fabric with two gathering stitches. I think from now on, I'll always use three! I figured out rather slowly, blind as I am, that it's best to pull the bobbin thread to gather. Fortunetely, it turned out very pretty, and all that remains now is to hem the pretty little garment and strap Daphne into it for final fittings!

Goodbyes

Well, that's all for today. I'm off to maintain my grades in my other classes! Today we watch Brokeback Mountain in my Love and Sexuality class. I'm not very pleased on that issue, as I love the two main actors and am not in the mood to see them.. uh... well... you know. Sadness prevails, so I'll start sketching instead of watching :)

Love ya!